Mumbai:
Sometimes, you get things right the first time. Others, the second.
But the third time, they say, is the charm.
– Sarah Dessen
Designer, Vaishali Shadangule showcased her brand’s 2023 couture collection for the third time at the ongoing Paris Haute Couture Week (PHCW). Her debut in the official event calendar was in 2021 and this year marked her 3rd consecutive showcase at the prestigious platform, where Vaishali has proudly taken India’s rich handwoven textile, coupled with her conceptual design language to an international stage. Vaishali is the first and only Indian woman to have been invited to showcase on the official calendar of Paris Haute Couture Week.
Last evening, Vaishali S. showcased her collection, titled ‘Abyss’ under the iconic Parisian landmark, La Pyramide Inversée skylight, at Carrousel du Louvre.
Employing her unique flair for effortlessly blending traditional weaves and techniques with dramatic silhouettes, Vaishali has designed her couture collection for PHCW 2023 whilst taking inspiration from the journey of self-discovery that we all go through during our lives, which can perfectly be synthesised by a dive into the darkness of the ocean. If we take a deep dive into the ocean’s abyss, we start discovering secret beauties that the ocean hides, or also those we hide inside ourselves.
In an unbroken extension of Vaishali’s signature style, the textures, and the new blends of shimmering materials that ‘Abyss’ is designed with will transport you on this journey of discovery via the depths of the sea and your very soul.
Last July after completing her second showing during Paris Haute Couture week, the designer happened to be gazing into the darkness of the river Seine, when she realised how taking part in the first Paris Haute Couture had been a leap of fate that ultimately propelled her to an elevated level of excellence. That inky water pushed her to start this journey of the new collection from introspective dark colours, which gradually morph into a plethora of colours and creatures.
Another such moment of self-discovery happened as she was taking in the majesty of the Eiffel Tower – an extremely elegant, but essentially barren structure of steel bars with the most stunning linear silhouette.
These moments of realisation perfectly matched the research Vaishali was carrying out with her cording technique, which, in the context of this collection, is styling and wrapping women’s bodies in a unique and never-before-seen manner.
As such, Vaishali’s ‘Abyss’ collection for Paris Haute Couture Week 2023 is made with carefully chosen yarn from villages across India. These threads are then woven on handloom into the finest metallic silk which was used throughout the collection. The garments that make up the collection are flowy, yet constructed to form unconventional silhouettes, as per the designer’s artistic interpretation of an abyss. The final product is a form of wearable art in handwoven Indian textiles. The collection includes a mix of gowns and various artistic drapes using Vaishali’s signature textures and handwoven fabrics.
When we dive into the depths of an abyss, darkness surrounds us; but as we start exploring it, we gradually perceive the beauty of the colours around us, until we finally reach the light. Similarly, Vaishali’s ‘Abyss’ collection starts with black, depicting the deepest depths. This darkness slowly gives way to purple, pink, green and yellow hues, which then finally transition into pure white – a depiction of our journey from the abyss, into the light.
Speaking about showcasing at PHCW, Vaishali says, “For me, this is the most exciting time of the year, as Paris Haute Couture is a platform that allows you to unleash your creativity, which is much required for such a platform and something I thoroughly enjoy!”
For her 2023 Paris Haute Couture Week show Vaishali partnered with Beppe D’Elia, the Italian hair jewellery brand that specialises in high-quality pieces, handmade in Italy and decorated with magical diamonds, noble metals, and fine gems, which are the result of a long creative process between Beppe D’Elia, a fashion and celebrity hairstylist, and Nadia Missbach, a high-end jeweller.
Other show partners included Grover Wines, who were the pouring partner for the event, and Beautick, who was the hair and makeup partner for the show.
The Vaishali S. brand was born out of designer Vaishali’s deep-seated love for classic Indian weaves and textiles. Working with authentic hand-woven fabric and perennially telling a culturally rich tale about India’s rich textile heritage, the brand has endeavoured to celebrate Indian handloom since its inception in 2001. As a strong believer in the “ESG” stamp, Vaishali S. is dedicated to zero waste and circularity with tangible social impact across several states in the country and redistribution across the whole chain of the ecosystem.
No stranger to the international stage, Vaishali has previously shown at New York Fashion Week and at Milan Fashion Week and her collections are stocked at high-end boutiques in both London and Milan.
